The level of detailed work that goes into making Hajime Ando’s visually stunning creations is astonishing. His designs instantly recall the bold, opulence and timeless glamour of Bulgari’s high-end jewels. The city of Rome has been his main muse for his jewellery designs. With a natural fondness for the ancient city, it is no wonder that Ando’s creativity, passion and Italian sensibility integrates so gracefully with the Bulgari brand. It’s time that this designer rises to the spotlight. ISABELLA YAN caught up with him at the Jewelry Trade Center in Bangkok and discussed his work and inspiration.
Tell us a bit about your background. What first led you in the direction of designing jewellery? How did you get into the industry?
My professional path began more than 30 years ago in Tokyo, Japan my hometown. I majored in metal craft which is a traditional Japanese handicraft, and after graduation, I started my career as a jewellery designer in Japan for 10 years. After my first trip to Italy, my love for Italian art and language led me to move to Valenza in 2001.
Valenza is Italy’s major jewellery district in the region of Piedmont with the highest number of high quality gold artisans and jewellery businesses in the country. Here, I continued to cultivate my passion for jewellery craftsmanship and became a designer for an Italian jewellery brand called Luca Carati.
Afterwards, I was a designer for Crova s.p.a, an Italian manufacturer of handmade jewellery founded in 1845. From 2005 onwards, I became one of the seven jewellery designers for Bulgari in Rome.
You speak three languages – Japanese, Italian and English. Why were you drawn to Italy?
I studied the Italian language for five years in Japan before moving to Italy. I was fascinated by Italy’s rich heritage long before my travels. I had a huge fondness for Italian fashion, modern design, automobiles, its cuisine, cinematography and culture. It was so different to the dainty, minimalist Japanese aesthetic I was used to. Italian design is dramatic, opulent and daring. I believe my work is an interplay of Roman history and modern design working closely in synergy.
As a designer, what inspires your work? Did Italian art and design have an influence?
I lived in Rome for five years. Rome with its architectural and artistic heritage has ultimately influenced my creative designs and mode of expression. The city of Rome is like a historical art museum. From beautiful pebbled piazzas filled with UN World Heritage sites, monumental public sculptures, Roman coins to the glorious pink sunset colours set against the classical Borghese gardens… Rome was truly a special experience for me.
What is the favourite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special?
The influence of Italian design certainly echoes throughout my jewellery. Whilst expressing Bulgari’s values and heritage played an integral part in my own design style, recently, I’ve been harking back to my own heritage and identity, using traditional Japanese metal craft techniques. Last year, in collaboration with Gyokusendou workshop, a new copper jewellery product was launched exclusively by Wako Department Store in Tokyo’s Ginza district. My idea was to create a jewellery collection that contemporized traditional Japanese copper techniques and embodied the Japanese spirit and soul. The Ginza district was a notable site for silver coin minting before it evolved as an upmarket shopping district. Thus, the shape of this pendant (left) was derived from the curved shapes of ancient Japanese coins.
by a swan design
Are your designs made by hand, CAD or a combination of the two?
My design work is mostly made using CAD and a 3D printer. I care about the efficiency of my work, as well as maintaining high quality finish. In design work, I learnt that speed is very important.
Bulgari’s designs are characterised by their prominent use of multicoloured gemstones set in rich yellow gold. What are your favourite materials and gemstones?
My favourite metal is 18-karat yellow gold as it exudes passion and warmth. I also like using aged metal copper and bronze. Recently, the increase in demand for diamonds means that my designs feature more of diamonds than coloured gemstones. Personally, the exuberance of colour is very important to me; it is colour that allows you to become creative, play with daring combination of shades that brings out the individualism and personality of the wearer.
After 10 years working as a designer for Bulgari, you now have your own product development and design consultancy firm. Tell us more about your work.
As an external design consultant, I provide creative planning to design prototypes for new start-up brands, primarily for Japanese and European jewellery companies. Jewellery is a reflection of a country’s customs, culture and environment. Thailand has remained the centre of the jewellery industry, retaining high standards of quality and craftsmanship, and therefore becomes an immediate attraction for designers like myself. My next mission is to create innovative designs within this rich environment and eventually launch a global brand in Bangkok.
What advice would you give to someone interested in getting into the jewellery design business?
I think there’s a reason for every encounter. It is important to immerse yourself in major jewellery hubs and learn from the many talented people you meet; opportunities will then arise.