Structured Opulence

jewellery magazine India

Jewellers and architects are both first designers. In this design edit, Solitaire International highlights select haute jewellery collections which take their cues from architectural cityscapes.

There is a nexus between jewellery couture and architecture. They both require intricacy, precision, and structural integrity. For decades, several jewel couturiers have paid homage to celebrated architecture in their jewellery lines, and have taken notes while on vacation to exotic locales! Here are a few architectural jewellery collections that are eye-catching.

Rose’s Opera Collection

Biren Vaidya’s Rose Jewellery pays homage to the ‘style moderne’, ‘Art Deco’ movement of the 1920’s, through this stunning collection of fine jewellery. Distinguishing design features embrace filigree work, simple, clean shapes, a “streamlined” look, stylised geometric from and the use of materials like black onyx. The eternal collection features jewellery couture reminiscent of early 20th century Paris and must-have collectibles for discerning women of style, with an appreciation for vintage jewellery. The line of geometric chokers, necklaces, sautoirs and cuff bracelets exudes elegance and sophistication, adding a touch of timeless glamour to any ensemble.

Pearl, tanzanite, emerald diamond Art Deco earrings. By House of Rose

 

Rubellite and emerald earrings. By House of Rose

Pallavi Foley’s Louvre-inspired  Collection

Pallavi Foley’s Louvre-inspired haute jewellery line includes a metre-long necklace, bracelets, earrings and stackable rings. Echoing a style similar to the philosophy of architect I.M.Pei, regarding building the collection, she said: “To me, form doesn’t always follow function. Form has a life of its own and at times it may be the motivating force in design.” This exquisite jewellery collection features over 150 diamonds, and is mostly multifunctional. Surrounding the tiny pyramids of diamonds is space—which almost urges the view to see more closely—as to what lies under the surface. Adorned with natural diamonds, set in 18-karat gold, Foley’s baubles are charismatic beyond words.

The Louvre necklace by Pallavi Foley

H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery’s Zanzibar collection

Bespoke high jeweller Harshad Ajoomal’s vibrant and colourful Zanzibar collection is  inspired by the heritage of a young coastal East-African archipelago with a deep history, mainly as a trading port for many centuries. “Influenced by multiple cultures, we have explored Zanzibar through its eclectic colour combinations in its textiles and roughness in its landscape,” Harshad Ajoomal, the Creative Director and Founder of H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery says. The stellar jewellery line combines rare precious stones from all over the world in unusual cuts and combinations, enhanced with an inherently bold medley of diamonds.

Structured, gem-studded ear studs from the Zanzibar collection by H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery

Tanishq’s Tales of Mystique

At the Paris Haute Couture Week Fall-Winter 2023-24 in partnership with renowned Indian designer Rahul Mishra—Tanishq unveiled ‘Tales of Mystique’, An ode to the spirit of Rajasthan with a new line of —high-end statement jewels that boast of colour, culture, and refined aesthetic. The collection narrates the tales hidden in the beautiful architectural details of the majestic palaces, the charming forts, and the exotic cityscapes of Rajasthan. Translating the allure of grand jharokhas, arches, domes, and staircases, each jewel has been painstakingly crafted in three dimensions and sculpted forms to bring alive the architectural beauty with the use of contemporary silhouettes and colour combinations.

The Golden Gateway in 18-karat rose gold from the Tales of the Mystique collection. By Tanishq

Nornament’s Cameo Collection

Nornament’s design-inspired collection is named after the technique of cameo-making, an art form which was used in the Victorian era to capture memories of loved ones in the form of beautiful portraits, sceneries and even landscapes. The art was etched with the help of resin on materials that were available at that time in Italy such as shells, whereas agate stones in other parts of Europe. Taking inspiration from this beautiful art form, Nornament has curated a collection keeping the centrepiece of each jewellery as a cameo piece, crafted by artists highlighting it with diamonds, polkis and gold.

A cameo set in a rectangular pendant featuring a lady playing the piano. The necklace is adorned with polkis, pearls, and diamonds. By Nornament

 

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