The course of history is cyclical and fashion trends from yore tend to emerge – and this time, brooches are having an ‘it’ moment.
The video-call era has propelled the resurgence of the brooch, a versatile piece of adornment that long since transitioned from being functional to fashionable. Back in the old days, brooches were used to pin up shawls, scarves, or waist belts or even clock fasteners. But the more rarefied class of people – read royalty – made it a fashion statement. Brooches got more fancy and ornate during the Belle Epoque period between 1880 and 1914. And who can forget the veritable collection of historical brooches worn time and again by Queen Elizabeth?
Elaborate, gem-set lapel pins were adorned on sherwanis, long robes turbans by Mughal rulers. Soon enough the brooches gained popularity amongst the Hindu rulers and it became an integral part of their attire.
Rishabh Tongya, Creative Director of Diacolor, a fine jewellery brand, cites the example of HH Maharaj Bhupinder Singh, of Patiala, who was a connoisseur of fine jewels. “Each time you spot his image, he is always seen wearing an exquisitely crafted brooch,” notes Tongya.
More recently, when Lady Gaga made a dramatic appearance on the platform to sing the US national anthem at the inauguration ceremony of 46th President Joe Biden, her theatrical costume grabbed a lot of attention –the voluminous Schiaparelli haute couture gown was complimented by a giant dove gold pin, symbolising peace. Brooches once again became conversation starters.
Breaking age-barriers, ornate pins are now being favoured by the younger generation as well. Many Indian fine jewellery brands are presenting versatile and modular brooches designed to be worn even as a pendant on a chain, pinned on floppy bowtie or worn as a hair piece.
The recently launched a limited 18-karat gold brooch edition by high-end jewellery brand Moksh derives its design inspiration from floral forms referenced from the Mughal era. The brand’s creative director, Meenal Choskhi, explains, “Brooches offer us designers a larger surface area or canvas to work upon to express ourselves or adorn the motifs. We have recently introduced a line-up of brooches eulogizing flowers in symmetrical forms articulated with baguettes, gemstones and pearls.” The brooches are retailed between Rs. 2.50 lakh and Rs. 4 lakh.
Brooches are one of the most elegant pieces of jewellery, says Rishabh Tongya. “It adds an adequate amount of edge to both Western and Indian outfits. We, as a brand, have a great collection of brooches designed with some of the most exquisite gemstones and precious metals. From emerald brooches to enamel, from diamond to carbon leaf, there indeed is a brooch for every occasion.”
Vijay Golecha, owner and chief designer, Golecha Jewels, harbours a fascination for brooches. “For me, making a piece of jewellery is akin to writing a poem. The design has to be perfect and then I go on to choose the perfect and complimentary gemstones to add the everlasting value to the brooches.” Golecha feels that the brooch is one ornament that’s one size fits all, and believes that these can make a fashion statement as well as become an heirloom.
